West of Burgau to Sagres conditions change: the sea becomes more choppy, the water cooler and those winds fresher, changes which intensify north of Sagres to Odeceixe and beyond. This whole coastal strip with its beautiful beaches and more stark landscapes is a protected area has become a nature reserve. Gone are the familiar sandstone coastlines of the south - replaced here with dark limestone and slate cliffs and rocks. Popular with the young (and hardy) this is a wild and quite exposed coastline but of great scenic beauty; an area full of wild life and one which the Portuguese Government is determined to preserve despite intense pressure from developers. Inland, the Western Algarve has much to offer with lovely countryside interspersed with tiny villages, unspoiled and so typically ‘Algarve’. Journeys from here into the Monchique mountains and beyond into the Alentejo are rewarding. This area's coastline is one of Portugal's few volcanic regions and features the Serra de Monchique. At their highest point, Foia (900m), they are hardly mountains but high enough to shelter much of the Algarve from the northerly winds and form a natural boundary with the Alentejo. Just a half-hour's drive from Portimao, the Monchique hills on a clear, mist free day offer quite breathtaking views of the coastal plains. The hills are thickly wooded with pines, chestnuts, cork oaks and eucalyptus and, together with a myriad of flowers, tiny streams and bubbling springs, they form an idyllic picture. Many visitors fall in love with the area and a short day trip can lead to a more permanent home. Down from the hills the scene becomes quite rural and a little to the east, amongst undulating countryside, lies Silves (Xelb), the old Moorish capital of the Al-Garb. The old town is dominated by its imposing red sandstone castle and the surrounding area is abundant with almond and orange groves. With so much beauty inland there is almost a reluctance to return to the coast which for us begins just west of Armação de Pera, passing tiny coved beaches until we reach the former fishing village of Carvoeiro, now a busy resort. Still further west past the fishing village of Ferragudo and around the Arade Estuary lie Portimao its satellite resort of Praia da Rocha, the town of Alvor and the Quinta da Rocha nature reserve. Most facilities are available at the resorts and golfers are well catered for at Monte Alvor (Penina), Alvor (Alto Club, the last of Sir Henry Cotton's designs), Carvoeiro (Quinta do Gramacho and Vale de Pinta) and nearby the 9 holes (par 3) of Vale do Milho.  Lagos
Once the capital of the Algarve, much of this historic town was destroyed in the earthquake of 1755. Parts of the town's fortified walls remain and there is a small fort and beautiful old churches. At one end of the palm-lined Avenida dos Descobrimentos there is a new marina and much of the town centre has been pedestrianised.
The narrow cobbled streets off the main squares still retain much of the old town's character. Now a lively cosmopolitan resort, the town is a good place to shop and its colourful and trendy bars, wide range of restaurants and interesting night life add to the resort's attractions. Several of the Algarve’s finest and most photographed beaches are within easy reach. There is also a fascinating fish market supplied by the town's large fishing fleet. Still described in guide books as a fishing village - it’s hardly that but most of the development has been kept to low-rise villas around the harbour, most with good views. Praia da Luz is a good beach and is very popular with British families. The resort gets very busy, overcrowded even, in July and August as does most of the Algarve. There are many restaurants, a few shops and excellent leisure and sporting facilities at the Luz Ocean Club. The village has an excellent water sports centre. Extensive new development has commenced along the coast between Luz and Burgau.
 Burgau
The small fishing community has largely disappeared except for a few colourful boats ‘moored’ near the pretty beach. At least it looks like a fishing village with narrow, cobbled streets leading steeply down to the water. There is an excellent beach and lots of atmosphere in tiny bars. There is a large sports centre on the edge of the village.
Sagres
Rather a sprawling village with a harbour and small fishing fleet. Though of historic interest its fort is a disappointment. There are several excellent beaches east and north of Sagres, gateway to a wild and quite exposed coastline. Salema
One of only a few true fishing villages west of Faro. Smaller than Burgau and, whilst development is growing, there is still a happy mix of locals and beach people. The winds tend to be stronger around here and to the west of Salema - a welcome relief for many from those very hot summer days. Carrapateira
Small village north of Vale do Bispo. The local beach, Praia de Bordeira, spectacular with crashing surf and dunes, is a short walk from the edge of the village. Back to the top Arrifana
A rather untidy little place on the cliffs above a superb beach. There are a couple of bars and restaurants. Aljezur
Lying on either side of the river, Aljezur is on one side relatively modern whilst across the river, under the ruins of its old castle, it assumes a Moorish character. Odeceixe
The last town before the Alentejo and built on a hillside at the head of a delightful curving estuary. It's beach, Praia de Odeceixe, lies to the north of the estuary and is one of the most sheltered on this west coast. Wonderful surf and minimal development. Porches
The village is famous for its hand painted pottery. Its small village centre and church have survived the inevitable villa encroachment through the surrounding pines. There is an Praiada Marinha international school nearby on the EN125 highway. Lagoa
A pleasant enough, well trod little town and the Algarve's most important wine producmg centre. Very provlncial, Lagoa provides important administrative and support servlces in the area. Carvoeiro
Once a lovely fishing village and still with traces of the original buildings cut into the slopes above the cliffs. Carvoeiro has long lost its battle with the developers. Villa and apartment development has grown apace with demand and continues to drape the surrounding hillsides. Carvoeiro's small central square jams solid with cars and tounsts in the peak holiday months and a profusion of bars, restaurants and supermarkets line its streets. The resort's fine but small beach cannot cope as development continues. Fortunately there is an escape to nearby Algar Seco and Praia da Centianes.  Ferragudo
A small fishing village built up around its 16th century fort on the eastern bank of the river Arade. The village has retained some of its charm but rising out of the village, modern development takes over. The main beach, Praia Grande, lies opposite Portimao's skyscrapers
Praia da Rocha
One of the earliest resorts in the Algarve and once very fashionable. Praia da Rocha has changed dramatically. The beautiful flat beach protected by tall cliffs is now completely enclosed by a mass of huge hotel and apartment blocks. Along the length of the main beach there are many restaurants and the resort has a sister fort to that of Ferragudo across the river. A casino and lively nightlife complete this very large resort. Back to the top Portimao
Always a busy port and fishing town, Portimao is now an important commercial and administrative centre for the region. Gone are the days when the visitor could watch the fishermen going about their work on the quayside whilst enjoying freshly caught and grilled sardines between chunky slices of bread (the Portuguese way). The sardines are still available from a number of seafood restaurants, but the fishing activities have crossed to the other side of the river. The town has a modern shopping centre and the old area near the harbour is worth exploring. For resort facilities Portimao relies on neighbouring Praia da Rocha and Alvor. Alvor
An ancient port with a long and interesting history and until recently hardly changed. Narrow streets lined with white washed buildings lead up from its harbour area. The main beach is overlooked by a group of high rise hotels, but back towards Portimao relief can be found on the beaches of Tres Irmaos, Praia do Joao de Arens and Praia do Vau.  Silves
A friendly, quiet little town set in undulating countryside and dominated by its large sandstone castle. Constant battles between Moors and Christians, the silting up of the river Arade and several earthquakes have taken their toll on Silves. Near the castle there is an interesting Gothic cathedral which the earthquake of 1755 damaged but did not destroy.
Caldas de Monchique
A lovely, peaceful little spa village wedged between thickly wooded hills and famous for its mineral waters. Monchique
Small, busy market town with an interesting parish church. Large monthly agricultural market. Its most interesting buildings are its parish church, Ingreja Matriz, up a cobbled street off the main square and ruins of a 17th century monastry, Nossa Senhora do Desterro. The views are quite spectacular. 
Back to the main map Our researchers are busily working on providing you with the latest up-to-date information about the Algarve and we will be posting their findings in the next few weeks. Make sure you return soon to get the full low down about this wonderful region of Portugal. | 
